Kenzo show

Think Russia Meets Mongolia. Cossacks and Tribal Horsemen. Fur and brocade and brightly colored, roughly woven, mirror-studded fabric. Rose-patterned silk and thick leather belts. Muted colors and flapper beading. Delicate and sturdy. Earthy and gorgeous. All this, apparently, is what Antonio Marras had in mind when he put together the Fall/Winter 09-10 collection for Kenzo.

What we saw:

Mustard, teal, aubergine, russet, maroon, pumpkin

Fabrics thick with mirrors and metallic threads

Glittery mirrored brocade and velvet

Wrapped robe jackets, dresses, and vests

Nubby sweaters, cropped and oversized

Cossack pants with tight legs, buttons from the knee down

Hip interest in trow -- pleats and voluminous pockets

Pegged ankles

Dresses in thin knits and/or damask with drop waists

Longer skirts

Quilted hems on skirts and cropped trow

Square shoulders

Puffy sleeves

Seamless shoulders with drape

Empire waists

Deep cowl draping at necks

Neck wraps

Floral 3D crochet appliques on knit dresses and boiled wool jackets

Heavy 1920s-style beading on bodices

Fur hems and collars

Fringe hems and collars

Asymmetric random gathering on skirts and dresses

Suede platform stilettos

Platform mules

Opaque hose

For evening, gray, brown, and black gowns in silk with thick leather belts and neck wraps, some with double and triple skirts in different lengths

Eyes were lined and lips were matte

For men:

Brown, maroon, taupe, and gray

Large windowpane plaids

Small scale to suits: shorter cuffs and trow, close fitting

Long, thin-gauge sweaters under suit coats and cardigans

Large cable-knit cardigans with belts in dark colors

Square, unpadded shoulders

Wrinkled matte stretch jersey with a slight sheen

Duffle coats in shorter lengths

Fur collars

The show closed with Kate Bush's "Babushka," which is one of my favorites. It gets stuck in my head.

Barry and I were photographed some more, and spoke with some of the Kenzo people -- or maybe they were some of the fashion show crew? We all smiled a lot and didn't really understand each other very well, but had a lovely time. (Communication that would have been sketchy at best is being further hampered these days by the fact that Mercury is retrograde until September 29. Mark your calendars and sit tight until then.)

In summation, this season you can expect to wear whatever the hell you like that looks good on you and makes you feel beautiful and COMFORTABLE. I have spoken.